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Talking
Native:
Establishing Natives at Home
By Karen Griffin
Reprinted from The Tillandsia, Dade Chapter FNPS, April 2004
First, forget about the myth that you can
plant a (woody) native and then leave it alone and watch it grow.
While natives are easy to care for in many respects, they still
need care. This article is not the definitive on caring for your
natives, but I am writing from my own experience and from experiences
others have shared with me.
In the wild, many of our natives rely on
microscopic members of the fungal kingdom called mycorrhizae.
The mycorrhizae create symbiotic relationships with the plants,
living in the plants' roots and capitalizing on the rich source
of carbon while they absorb and process nutrients from the soil
and make them available to the plants. This allows our natives
to thrive in our nutrient poor soils, as nutrients are made available
to them that they would otherwise not be able to use. This relationship
can start at time of germination and continues throughout the
plant's lifetime. The nutrients supplied by this relationship
are at much lower levels than in nutrient rich soils. It is for
this reason that our natives can thrive without much fertilizer
once established in your yard, as they have evolved to need much
less nutrients than those plants that grow in nutrient rich soils.
In cultivation, nurseries use relatively
sterile potting mixes that do not have mycorrhizae and therefore,
as all plants need nutrients, nurseries raise our natives with
fertilizer. The plants become used to readily-available nutrients
and often grow and mature much faster than in the wild. While
mycorrhizae most likely live in all types of soil, even in your
yard, the plants that you take home from plant sales have not
had the opportunity to develop this relationship and thus may
need help when planted. In most cases, yard soil is nutrient
rich compared to our native soils, so our natives can become
self-sufficient once established. Also, the plants will more
than likely be able to develop a relationship with whatever mycorrhizae
exist in the soil. However, for the first growing season, it
is wise to provide your natives with a dose of slow-release fertilizer
at least once or twice. This is readily available at your local
retail gardening supply store. Use half the recommended dosage,
as our natives do not need more than that. Once the plants have
established themselves, they can survive without fertilizer.
However, their growth will slow. (Editor's note: Per Wilcox
Native Nursery owner Bruce Turley, "natural organic fertilizer
should be a first choice over slow release fertilizer,"
with slow release the next best thing. Chemical fertilizers may
harm the necessary microbial activity the author promotes.")
Winter is dry and cool here in South Florida.
Our natives have evolved to slow their growth or even go completely
dormant during the dry season. Therefore, if you plant anytime
from late fall to early spring, you will notice that the plants
will not have the usual growth spurt one sees during the wet
season, even if you fertilize and water.
But, if you are like me, and can't resist
that extra special native you happen along, then there are some
steps you have to take to ensure your plant establishes during
this time of the year. Anytime you plant, you need to water your
plants in thoroughly right after you put the plant in the ground.
During the dry season, water daily for the first 1-2 weeks. Then
water every other day or so (at least 3 times a week) for another
2-3 weeks. Then water weekly for the next month. This should
give the plan a good chance to grow new roots.
Watering thereafter can be based on how
dry, windy and cool the weather is. If it is dry, sunny and windy,
you may need to water weekly. If it is cool, cloudy, with a little
rain here and there you may be able to extend the watering to
once every two weeks, especially if you mulch. I do not use my
irrigation system to water. Instead, I use my hose. A pain, but
it is more water efficient and I do not water plants that have
already been established and are jiving to the regular change
of seasons.
After a native plant has gone through a
full growing season, it can usually get through the dry season
with little to no watering. Keep watch, however. I will douse
those plants that I know like a little more water a few times
over the dry season to keep them from completely going crisp
on me.
If you plant during the dry season, I would
provide a light dosage (1/4 of the recommended dose) of fertilizer
ONLY during the initial watering regime. Do not fertilize more
than once, and once the plant is established, there is no need
to fertilize in the dry season. The plants will not use it in
sufficient amounts to make it worth your while.
If you are planting during the wet season,
make sure the plants get watered every day the first week. After
that, watering can be reduced to every other day for the next
couple of weeks, and then down to weekly for the next month or
so. Keep track of the weather and take turns with the rain as
needed. You may find that Mother Nature will take care of all
your watering after the initial week or two. Rain is better for
your plants than city or even well water, which is another reason
to avoid planting during the dry season. So, when you think you
cannot stand one more hot, humid, summer day, remember how happy
your plants are during this time of year and things will look
much brighter... you may actually start looking forward to summer!
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